Walk economy

Far from disappearing, pedlars have a pervasive presence in citiesโ€”around busy intersections such as traffic signals, metro stations, tourist spots, bus terminals, railway stations, religious places, public parks and monuments; within residential localities, neighbourhood markets and industrial areas; outside office complexes, educational institutions, hospitals, shopping centres and even malls and supermarkets.ย They ply an entire gamut of trades from knife-sharpening, shoe polishing, miracle cures and ear-cleaning to providing chai and snacks, as also a wide range of commodities. This essay is a response to the images captured by Gopal in his city Mumbai, from the location of my interest as an anthropologist in forms of walking in the city as well as the associational life of streets around the locus of economic activities.

The city, in love

The two pieces included in this post are part of a book in progress that Sailen is writing, comprising a series of Odia short stories set in Bhubaneswar. The stories are around the theme of ephemeral and routine encounters of love, or its possibility, located in places that serve as public and private landmarks of everyday life in the city.

When is qasbah?

The Kasba of my childhood was never a destination, let alone a subject of interest or enquiry. Nearly two decades later, when I arrived in aย qasbahย in Uttar Pradesh, I had learnt to spell it with a โ€˜qโ€™, the Latin equivalent of the Arabicย qaf. I had also learnt a few other things about it as a student of history. Broadly, the qasbah was distinct from aย shahrย (city) and often emerged around theย qilaย (fort) of a military commander. In some parts of the Islamic world,ย the qilaย itself was called a qasbah. Historians have variously translated the qasbah as โ€˜small townshipโ€™, โ€˜commercial martโ€™, โ€˜between a village and a cityโ€™ and โ€˜garrison townโ€™. Indeed, qasbah has implied different kinds of settlements in different places at different points in time, and these meanings are accessed through the lenses of those who wrote about these settlements โ€˜not as points or areas on maps, but as integrations of space and time; as spatio-temporal eventsโ€™.

The night jasmine

I notice the night jasmine in front of my house in Bhubaneswar, after many years, when it gets infested with termites. The insects have woven a second skin around the tree. I hate termites. They eat books. I break a twigโ€”as long as my forearm and as thin as Rumiโ€™s little fingerโ€”from the guava tree that grows just beside the night jasmine. I donโ€™t remember whether I planted the night jasmine or if it has grown on its own.

Hunny ka chuha

If it is indeed the same chuha, it is back with a vengeance. Its earlier avatar was well behaved. It would stealthily come out at night after Hunny went to sleep and would rarely leave telltale signs of its dinner, except sometimes half-eaten bananas. This one does acrobatics through all times of the day, leaping over masala jars and knocking them off, smashing Rooafza bottles, scurrying over the bookshelves, chomping on electricity bills and doing cartwheels on the sofa. It eats everything โ€ฆ potatoes, lids of Tupperware boxes, newspapers, phone chargers, books and unopened biscuit packetsโ€”you name it! It prefers to shit on the bed or on freshly laundered clothes. And it is BIG.

My Teacher, Sunil Kumar

This piece is the first in a series of reflections on and conversations with interpreters who have embedded themselves in the city they translate to others. Their imageries and imaginations provide ways of seeing the past and present of the city as also forms of caring about the city to future generations of interpreters.

Mayaโ€™s Curse

โ€˜So you want to know who Maya is?โ€™ he breaks the awkward silence. Trying not to look frightened, she clears her throat and manages to mumble a โ€˜Yesโ€™. โ€˜The problem with you youngsters is that you donโ€™t know the stories that rule this city. Never mind โ€ฆ youโ€™re probably the only one of these people dying to meet me whoโ€™s not interested in some quick-fix solution for health, prosperity or love. You may not be aware, but youโ€™ve come searching for a story โ€ฆ and Iโ€™d love to tell it โ€ฆ itโ€™s been such a long while since I've told a story. But I have a condition.โ€™ โ€˜What?โ€™ she asks. โ€˜You cannot interrupt my storytelling and you cannot ask any questions after Iโ€™m done.โ€™

An untitled journey

Vasu was off to a great start today. She was ready for office, well in advance to relish a steaming cup of chai and eat two parathas at an appreciate-each-morsel pace. On most days, breakfast was a parathaโ€“jam roll, gobbled on the march to the bus stop. Today she had fifteen opulent minutes to reach the bus stop instead of the usual eight minutes that commanded dusty shortcuts, hasty footsteps and frantic waving to stop the bus. If only any of that had made a difference.

Donkey

This time Nana Saheb seems to have picked up a bigger stone than before. He aims it at the dog barking from the opposite terrace. The dog has been watching this drama of fistfuls of air being aimed at him for a week now. And he is no longer afraid of the old manโ€™s fake… Continue reading Donkey